Trip Planning

Why Slovenia belongs on your list, even if you've never heard of it

Why Slovenia belongs on your list, even if you've never heard of it

Most Americans I know can't place Slovenia on a map, and that was true for me too, right up until I started researching what was near Croatia. We had loved our small-ship cruise along the Croatian coast so much that I was already thinking about going back, and Slovenia kept popping up on every map I opened. So I started reading. And then I started planning. And by the time we landed there, I had a full self-designed week mapped out, anchored around the one town I couldn't stop reading about.


That town is Ljubljana, the capital, and it's the reason I will tell anyone who will listen that this country belongs on your list.


Ljubljana is the kind of place where you can walk for days and keep finding new things. New corners. New side streets. A history layered so densely that every block tells you something different. There's a castle on a hill overlooking everything, a river running through the middle of the old town lined with cafes on both banks, and bridges so beautiful that you stop just to look at the bridges. The city is small enough to feel knowable and old enough to feel deep, and it has the kind of pace where you stop checking your phone after about a day.


We didn't stay only in Ljubljana, though. The reason a full week in Slovenia is the right call is that the country is small enough to use one base and reach almost everything, and the things outside the capital are some of the most interesting parts.


The day I will not forget is the day we went to Postojna Cave.


I'm not someone who normally gets emotional about caves. Postojna changed that. It's a network of underground chambers so vast that you ride a small train into them, through tunnels and openings, until you reach a great hall full of stalactites and stalagmites lit by amber light. Some of the formations are taller than a house. Some look like draped curtains turned to stone. The whole place looks like a whole different world, one that had been sitting under your feet the entire time.


My dad was into geology when I was growing up, and I spent most of that day thinking about him. The Postojna Caves were the kind of thing he would have loved, the kind of thing I wished I could call him about. That's the funny thing about traveling somewhere unexpected. The places you have never heard of are the ones that end up surprising you with feelings you didn't see coming.


That experience set the tone for the whole trip. Lake Bled, with the church on the island in the middle of it, looked like something I had only seen in fairy tale illustrations. The Julian Alps were right there, a casual mountain range running along the western edge of the country. Food was incredible, deeply influenced by Italian and Austrian and Hungarian and Balkan kitchens because all of them are close by, and you can taste it. The wine was a surprise, and the people were warm in a quiet, watchful way.


Here is the thing about Slovenia that I keep thinking about. Most people find it because of where they were already going. They go to Croatia, they look at a map, and there it is, an hour and change from the border. That's how it ended up on my list, and I think that's part of why it landed so hard when we actually arrived. We arrived curious, with no years of buildup, and the country gave us a week of slow discovery in return.


For my travelers who are working through their first European trip and feeling overwhelmed by all the famous places to choose from, I often bring up Slovenia. The crowds are smaller, the prices are gentler, and the country gives you back a sense of discovery that some of the more popular destinations have lost from sheer volume of visitors.


If you've never heard of it, you are exactly the person who needs to hear about it. Add it on to a cruise. Tack it on to an Italy or Croatia trip. Spend a week, base yourself in Ljubljana, go to Lake Bled, go to Postojna, eat slowly, walk a lot. You will come home with a story no one else at the dinner table can tell, which is the best souvenir there is.